Creative Writing Field Seminars
Trinidad and Tobago: July 6-20
Rainbow Country: Intersections of Influence
Instructor: Lauren Alleyne
In 1498, when Columbus arrived on the shores of the island we will visit, the Amerindians, more specifically the Arawak and Carib tribes, already inhabited the land, which was known to them as Iere (Land of the Humming Bird). Grateful to his Christian God, and inspired by the visible peaks of the three mountain ranges, Columbus renamed the island La Trinité, and claimed it for Spain. This first moment of colonization forecasts the layered interactions between indigenous claim, foreign intervention and natural landscape that would continue for centuries, weaving for the island a complex and fascinating history.
The colony initially faltered, but eventually thrived with the influx of settlers from all over Europe. A substantial cocoa, sugar and tobacco industry developed, making it a prosperous and coveted interest. Ownership of the smaller, neighboring island, Tobago, was also a source of contention between the European powers, but eventually, in 1889, after much changing of hands both islands fell to British rule, and were annexed as The Crown Colony of Trinidad and Tobago.
As one nation, the islands pursued independence from England, and this was officially granted in 1962. In 1976, the twin-island nation was formally recognized as The Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. By this time, the cocoa and tobacco industries had fizzled out (although small plantations survived in Tobago); however, in Trinidad, a far more lucrative natural resource had been discovered - oil. The country now boasts a booming petrochemical industry, which provides its main source of income. The islands are also becoming increasingly recognized as ecological treasures; each year wildlife-enthusiasts, as well as leisure tourists enjoy the extensive species of birds, butterflies and rare land and sea creatures the country has to offer. Today, Trinidad and Tobago is among the wealthiest and most stable countries in the Caribbean region.
In spite of political and economic independence, the mark of history is manifest in many ways: the telling place names (the capitals cities, Port-of-Spain and Scarborough, recall Spanish and British influence, while names like Arima, Otaheite, Sangre Grande echo others); the dialect (a vernacular of English peppered with Creole); but most obviously, the diverse population. The approximate 1.3 million citizens of Trinidad and Tobago are descendents (and most often mixtures) of Native peoples, African slaves, Indian and Chinese indentured workers, Lebanese and Syrian merchants as well as French, Portuguese, British and Spanish plantation owners. Nobel Peace Prize winner Desmond Tutu, fascinated by the ethnic composition, declared Trinidad and Tobago as a truly "rainbow country."
As one may imagine, such diversity has created and continues to foster a unique cultural landscape. Each one of the aforementioned groups brought to the islands a bit of home - cuisine, myth, spiritual beliefs, dance, music, language - to which they clung, and even today it is still easy to recognize the distinct cultural influences. However, given the shifting political climate, the shared, unfamiliar environment, and the vastly different social setting, it was impossible that these diasporic elements could remain "pure" or insular. Inevitably, they adapted - internally and interculturally; moreover, as generation after generation remained and grew to call the islands home, a distinctly Trinbagonian culture emerged.
This course will be an exploration of these distinct and amalgamated influences. Our goal will be to fully experience the breadth of the culture and through our writing to render whatever captivates/repels/confounds us about this place and its people. We will visit historical sites and natural preserves; we will attend and participate in cultural events; we will interact with local writers and artists. We will keep and carry a journal/scrapbook to document our experiences, and dedicate ample time to writing, reflection and sharing. We will aim to have at least one polished piece of prose, or group of poems by the conclusion of our trip.
- Landscape: Visits to Lopinot and La Vega Plantations, The Caroni Swamp and Bird Sanctuary, Asa Wright Nature Preserve, The Pitch Lake, Maracas Beach, The Devil's Wood Yard, and Clever Woods. Bucco Reef and Nylon pool tour
- Culture: Visits to a Mas Camp, a panyard (with steelpan lesson), a Calypso tent, a parang site, an Indian cultural show, Malik Folk Performers
- Religion: Visits to Waterloo cremation ground and shrine, the Port of Spain Cathedral, The main Muslim mosque in St James.
- Cuisine: We will try a variety of local dishes.
- Artistic Events: Visits to Trinidad Theatre Workshop, Naipaul House, storytelling event; workshop with Poet/performer Deborah Jean Baptiste Samuels; talk with award-winning writer Merle Hodge. Tobago Heritage Festival events
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